Building a Voron Trident 300 3D Printer: The Mechanics and Electronics

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2024-10-11 | By Ines Plückebaum

License: See Original Project 3D Printing

Welcome to my journey of building a Voron Trident 300.‎

First things first: What is Voron Design? The goal of Voron Design is to enable everyone to build their ‎own unique 3D printer, fine-tuned to their preferences and needs. There are two kinds of parts: Some ‎are 3D printed by your own existing printer, 3D printing service, maker space, fab lab, or a member of ‎the Voron community. The others are off-the-shelf parts you can buy in hardware stores or online ‎from different sources like DigiKey. Everything is open source, which enables you to modify and ‎customize your printer to match your needs. Further information is available on the Voron Design ‎Website.‎

Why here? Even though the internet provides hundreds of video guides, and the Voron Design Team's ‎manual is great, I wanted to document my journey, struggles, and solutions. I hope you’ll enjoy it as ‎much as I enjoyed the build. Last, but not least, it is a thank you to the Voron Design Team for ‎recommending DigiKey in their official sourcing guide: Voron Design Sourcing Guide.‎

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Figure 1: Voron 2.4 printer printing Voron Trident parts‎

Step 1: 3D Printed Parts

Printed parts I’m a lucky maker and have my own 3D printers so I can print my own parts. It is highly ‎recommended to print the parts according to Voron Design specifications. This was tested by the ‎Voron Design Team and the community. If you don’t own a 3D printer yet, you can use 3D printing ‎services, maker spaces, or fab labs in your area. Where can I find the 3D models? Voron Trident STLs or ‎use the Voron Design GitHub Repository. Please make sure to print the right parts and keep your ‎modifications in mind. I used eSun ABS+.‎

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Figure 2: Keeping track and sorting of all printed parts.‎

Step 2: Building the Frame

To build your frame, you can order standard 2020 aluminum extrusion, cut it, drill it, and add threads ‎per Voron guides and manual.‎

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Figure 3: All extrusions laid out.‎

However, I opted for convenience and ordered a pre-manufactured frame kit in a vibrant red color. ‎While this step might seem straightforward, it's actually one of the most critical phases of the entire ‎build. Ensuring that everything is precisely squared and tightly secured is essential. Neglecting this step ‎could lead to complications later on, especially when attempting to troubleshoot issues arising from a ‎misaligned frame.‎

After receiving the frame kit, I took the time to label the extrusions. These components can easily be ‎confused, so clear labeling proved invaluable for streamlining the assembly process and minimizing ‎errors.‎

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Figure 4: Labeled extrusions‎

An indispensable ally during assembly is thread locker. I personally rely on Loctite 243 for this purpose.‎

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Figure 5: Loctite I used‎

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Figure 6: Assembled frame‎

Step 3: First Mistake and Linear Rails

Unfortunately, I forgot to add the bars to the extrusions in step 2, so I had to partially disassemble the ‎frame and add the bars for the linear rails. This step marks my first modification. I opted for these bars ‎instead of the T-nuts mentioned in the official manual because it is easier than aligning the T-nuts.‎

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Figure 7: Mounting bar for linear rails‎

After rectifying this mistake, I double-checked to ensure everything was square before proceeding ‎with A/B motor mount and the linear rails.‎

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Figure 8: Applying brass heat-set inserts

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Figure 9: Assembled A drive.‎

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Figure 10: A and B drive mounted to the frame.‎

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Figure 11: Extrusion added.‎

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Figure 12: Back Z-rail support brackets.‎

I cleaned the rails to remove any oil residue and applied fresh grease to both the rails, and inside the ‎carriage from the back. Since there isn't a convenient option to do this later, I completed this step now. ‎Otherwise, the whole movement system has to be disassembled to reach the back of the rails.‎

For readers in North America, this cleaner is recommended, along with this type of grease. However, ‎due to shipping restrictions (I’m located in Europe), I had to rely on my local hardware store.‎

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Figure 13: Cleaning the rails.‎

I printed the linear rail guides twice to ensure perfect alignment.‎

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Figure 14: Y-axis rails

With some time left today, I also installed the Z carrier and the motor mounts.‎

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Figure 15: Z-rails, Z-carriers, and Z-motor mounts

Step 4: Motors and X-Axis

Similar to the process with the linear rails, I cleaned the lead screws on all three Z motors and attached ‎them to the Z carriers. Next, I securely screwed the motors into place. Following this, I applied the ‎same grease as used on the linear rails.‎

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Figure 16: Z-motors mounted

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Figure 17: Applying grease.‎

Please ensure to double-check the orientation and the T-nuts for mounting the printer's feet. There ‎are two sizes of T-nuts used, and extracting them from the extrusions, if the wrong size is used, can be ‎challenging.‎

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Figure 18: M5 and M3 T-nuts

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Figure 19: mounted feet.‎

The assembly of the X carriers was straightforward for me, having previously done the same on my ‎Voron 2.4. Installing the linear rails proceeded as before. It's important not to fully tighten the screws ‎for the X carrier, as specified in the manual. We need them to be loose to square the X-axis.‎

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Figure 20: X and Y carrier parts‎

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Figure 21: Mounting the X-rail

To facilitate the installation of the X-axis, I left the printer upside down. After adding the cable guide, I ‎took my time to properly square the X-axis. Then, I fully tightened the screws in the X carriers.‎

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Figure 22: squaring the gantry‎

Step 5: Setting Up the Belts and Preparing the Bed

This part can be quite intricate, and it's essential to ensure everything operates smoothly. I carefully ‎inspected every corner and pathway to avoid any issues. It's crucial to prevent the belts from rubbing ‎against anything, as this could damage them and affect print quality later.‎

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Figure 23: Clamping down one side of the belts with the X-carrier

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Figure 24: routing the belts carefully‎

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Figure 25: Optimistic belt length calculation‎

Initially, I installed the inductive probe, but I plan to replace it with the tap mod after testing the ‎printer thoroughly.‎

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Figure 26: Omron probe installed with glass fiber insulation tape to protect probe from heat.‎

Moving on, I prepared the heat bed, which came with a preinstalled heater and thermal fuse. Before ‎proceeding, I cleaned it with degreaser and isopropyl alcohol. Then, I applied the magnetic sticker ‎provided with the build plate, making sure to eliminate any air bubbles between the heat bed and the ‎adhesive.‎

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Figure 27: Heat bed‎

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Figure 28: Cleaning heat bed with IPA‎

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Figure 29: Magnetic sheet attached‎

Lastly, I placed some weights on the back of the heat bed and will let it set for 24 hours.‎

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Figure 30: Filament spools as weight‎

Step 6: Installing the Heat Bed

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Figure 31: PE wire attached‎

To ensure safety, I installed the ground cable to the heat bed first. I wanted to make sure I didn’t miss ‎this critical step. Next, I prepared the bed connections for the wires. In the picture above, you'll notice ‎the standard version with only Wago splice connectors, which I might reserve for later use in the ‎electronics bay. However, I opted for the other version, featuring a tiny PCB with soldered JST XH ‎connectors, to ensure a secure thermistor connection.‎

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Figure 32: Below heat bed distribution options‎

Following this, I readied the bedframe. It's essential to double-check the correct orientation and T-‎nuts to avoid the hassle of disassembling both the printed parts and the bed again.‎

Attaching the GE5C bearings to the printed parts was straightforward. With just six screws, everything ‎was securely fastened and neatly in place. Afterward, I slightly loosened the screws to shake and ‎wiggle the bed frame, ensuring everything settled into place, before tightening them again. Yes, ‎contrary to the manual's recommendation, I even fully tightened the bed, as tomorrow I'll be turning ‎the printer upside down for the electronics installation.‎

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Figure 33: Heat bed frame mounts with bearings‎

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Figure 34: Mount attached to the bed frame‎

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Figure 35: Heat bed installed

Step 7: Preparing the Electronics

A black acrylic sheet is being used to protect the electronics. I've ensured that the wire covers are ‎positioned correctly.‎

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Figure 36: Black acrylic sheet attached‎

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Figure 37: Checking wire cover for alignment‎

To secure the acrylic sheet in place, I've added zip tie clips. Departing from the manual, I've adjusted ‎the layout of the DIN rails to accommodate cooling fans and the length of the display cable.‎

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Figure 38: 3D printed zip tie clips to keep the acrylic sheet in place‎

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Figure 39: Mounted DIN rails.‎

Next, I've installed heat sinks for the Raspberry Pi 4 and the stepper drivers. Additionally, I've ‎mounted the DIN rail mounts and prepared the driver board. I've chosen the Big Tree Tech Octopus ‎with matching drivers for easier configuration. Alternatively, you can use the TMC2209 Evaluation ‎board, but programming adjustments are necessary. I've carefully set the jumpers to the correct ‎configuration to prevent damage to the board or the drivers. The same attention to detail applies to ‎the fan voltage adjustment. ‎

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Figure 40: Raspberry Pi with heat sinks‎

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Figure 41: TMC2209 driver with heat sink‎

DIN rail mounts have also been attached to all boards, the power supply, and the Omron solid-state ‎relay. This relay is the recommended choice per the Voron sourcing guide. ‎

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Figure 42: DIN rail mounts for the electronics‎

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Figure 43: Attached DIN rail mount‎

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Figure 44: Back of driver board with DIN rail mounts‎

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Figure 45: Setting the jumpers‎

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Figure 46: Installing TMC2209 driver boards‎

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Figure 47: Raspberry Pi with DIN rail mount‎

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Figure 48: Omron relay with DIN rail mount‎

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Figure 49: Break out board for easier wiring the tool head‎

For distributing mains voltage, DIN rail terminal blocks and Wago splice connectors will be used. I highly ‎recommend the Wago clamp DIN rail mount.‎

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Figure 50: Relay, power supply, and terminal blocks installed to DIN rail‎

Electronics have been added to the skirts. I've incorporated a 4.3” touch display for the Raspberry Pi ‎and connected it with the FFC cable to the display port. Additionally, I've installed 16mm diameter anti-‎vandal push buttons for 230V mains, as I am located in Europe. Consequently, I've opted for the Mean ‎Well RSP-200-24 power supply. The black switch currently serves no function, but I may assign a use to ‎it later. The power inlet has an integrated switch, which I won't use due to the presence of the switch ‎in the front skirt (https://www.printables.com/model/490860).‎

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Figure 51: Installing FFC cable to touch screen‎

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Figure 52: Skirt parts with electronics‎

The final task for today was to mount all parts to the DIN rails and attach the prepared skirt parts.‎

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Figure 53: Installed Boards, power supply, terminal blocks, relay, and 3 skirt parts‎

‎Step 8: Connecting the Cables

Motor connections and cables for the breakout board are fitted with JST XH connectors. I highly ‎recommend labeling and marking all cables to maintain clarity and organization. From the breakout ‎board to the tool head board, a 14-pos. Molex Microfit 3.0 connector with matching male connectors ‎on the board is used for connectivity.‎

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Figure 54: Mains and motor cables were the first to install‎

I've documented which sensor, switch, and fan are connected to each connector on the driver board, ‎providing a reference for later configuration adjustments.‎

To ensure some degree of cable management, I've installed plastic clamps leftover from assembling ‎my PC. Alternatively, a wide range of cable fasteners or zip tie mounts can be utilized. Comprehensive ‎cable management will be undertaken once the wiring above the acrylic sheet is completed.‎

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Figure 55: All cables installed‎

I've prepared the drag chain for the bed wiring and routed all cables from the heat bed to the ‎electronics bay. During this process, I realized that the cutout was too close to the motor, necessitating ‎adjustments without causing damage to the cables.‎

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Figure 56: Drag chain preparation.‎

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Figure 57: Installed Z drag chain

Step 9: Tool head Assembly

The assembly of the Stealthburner tool head is detailed in its respective manual found here: ‎https://vorondesign.com/voron_stealthburner ‎

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Figure 58: Front cover of the Stealthburner with additional hex pattern (https://www.printables.com/model/225153 )‎

For this setup, I opted to use the E3D Voron Revo hotend as outlined in the manual. Notably, I've ‎integrated the ERF Filament Cutter, providing precise filament cutting functionality and no need for a ‎Filament tip-forming process with the ERCF V2 setup.‎

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Figure 59: Tool head parts‎

The ERCF (Enraged Rabbit Carrot Feeder) is an open-source filament-changing system designed for ‎Klipper-operated printers like mine. ‎

To prepare for assembly, I customized the extruder motor, shortening its cable and terminating it with ‎a JST XH 4-pin connector to fit neatly into the system.‎

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Figure 60: Cutting the motor wires‎

The assembly process proved complex this time around, as I had to reference three manuals ‎simultaneously. Due to the required modifications for the ERF cutting blade mount, I needed to adapt ‎the acceleration sensor mount. This involved using longer M3x20 screws, an M3 nut, and two heat-set ‎inserts as stand-offs, secured with thread locker to ensure stability for precise resonance ‎measurements later on.‎

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Figure 61: Filament cutter assembled‎

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Figure 62: Acceleration sensor‎

However, a significant challenge arose when I discovered that the modified Clockwork 2 extruder with ‎mounts for two micro switches was incompatible with the existing old tool head board I had on hand. ‎It was quite frustrating since I’d prepared everything using this tool headboard and planned to have ‎this step finished today.‎

Consequently, rather than proceeding with wiring the tool head, I had to order a new Stealthburner ‎Tool head PCB. Once it arrives, I'll need to rewire the extruder motor connector before continuing with ‎the assembly.‎

As a result, work on this phase is temporarily postponed until the new tool head PCB is delivered.‎

‎Step 10: Tool head Part 2‎

The eagerly awaited two-piece tool head board arrived, prompting me to carefully recrimp the ‎connectors to accommodate JST PH connectors instead of JST XH. With everything prepared, I ‎proceeded to mount the tool head according to the instructions in the Stealthburner manual and ‎neatly connected all the cables. After determining the final cable lengths, I secured them with drag ‎chains and ensured tidy placement within the electronics bay.‎

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Figure 63: 2 pieces tool head PCB‎

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Figure 64: Changing connectors and crimp contacts‎

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Figure 65: Motor wired according to specification‎

Notably, the new tool head PCB features a different wiring setup compared to its predecessor. The ‎connector originally designated for the chamber thermistor now serves an additional purpose: ‎supplying 5V to the board for LEDs or other sensors. Placing the thermistor alongside the Z-axis drag ‎chain, I was ready for the moment of truth—powering it on for the first time.‎

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Figure 66: Assembled tool head‎

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Figure 67: Zip ties for strain relief‎

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Figure 68: Drag chains assembled‎

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Figure 69: Modified NTC Thermistor 4316-104NT-4-R025H42G-ND for measuring chamber temperature

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Figure 70: Thermistor mounted next to Z drag chain mount‎

A rush of satisfaction washed over me as I watched the LEDs illuminate, signaling that everything was ‎functioning perfectly so far.‎

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Figure 71: Electronics powered up for the first time‎

Part 2 of my Voron Trident 300 3D printer build will showcase the process of installing the firmware, ‎calibrating the printer, and achieving the first print. Stay tuned for more updates.